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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Right here, most of the time
    Posts
    1,553
    Holy Crap! They got a name for it? Hmm, "cotter crank" well, what ever works. Like I said, I'd sure want a good hardened pin.
    “There are painters who transform the sun into a yellow spot,
    but then there are others who, with the help of their art and their intelligence,
    transform a yellow spot into the sun.” ~ Pablo Picasso ~

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hamilton Ontario Canada
    Posts
    494
    That Cotter Crank pin seeems like it would be a good simple solution. Both the holder and tools are both fairly easy to make. I have an adaptor to use the tools I made for my flypress on my hydraulic press. I think I am going to drill a hole through the side to modify it away from a set screw.

  3. So here's a picture of what I was talking about. The shaft is 1" and the pin is 1/2" and very hard. Note the long taper. The set up is spring loaded a little. I think this could be a nice simple set up.
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  4. #34
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    NorthWest ...england
    Posts
    340
    Looks like this could be the answer Fe.

    What do you mean by spring loaded?

  5. #35
    This press thread is awesome! What a great tool for production work. Even play...

    I have a small press, but this thread is urging me to build a larger one. I don't do production, but it still would be fun.
    Grandkids and blacksmithing... Joy Joy Joy

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Greater Seattle Area
    Posts
    1,441
    Yep... I like it....


    I think Im going to give it a go....
    Whatever you are, be a good one.
    Abraham Lincoln

  7. #37
    Hey guys,
    What I know about presses is that I want one. So with that in mind, would you explain how this works? What part is the press retainer? Do you intend to have a flat surface on both retainer and bit to prevent distortion in the internal area? It seems to me a taper would have a negative effect in preventing that, And that shims of some sort would be required to keep the fit perfect for each bit. Pull me back in line if I’m heading in the wrong direction but I think, if the shank is strait, the meeting point is two flat surfaces external from the shaft and the slot for the wedge is longer than it can enter into the female part distortion would be minimized in the hidden parts. Is this what you guys are talking about? Or am I gathering this information together incorrectly? Reel me in, please summarize all this information, I think most of us non gurus are lost.
    Bob

  8. David-
    This is the drive cog for my power hacksaw. The spring loaded part is what makes it dis-ingage from the driven part. The wedge sees pressure from rotaion and linier. As you can see in the pictures it has held up realy well given it was made in something like 1912

    Larry-
    I had been thinking about making it thread on to the ram but now I'm thinking why not do the same wedge system on top and bottom? Keep us posted on your findings and progress.

  9. #39
    Grant,
    I’m thinking this may be a good thread for the tutorial section, apparently a system for this has not been perfected. Perhaps you guys can find it.
    Bob

  10. Quote Originally Posted by Larry L View Post
    Yep... I like it....


    I think Im going to give it a go....
    Hay Larry-
    Have you done any playing with this idea?
    I'd be very interested in seeing what you have done if you have....

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